2 fast 2 4tresses

After Vardzia, there was some debate about whether to call it a day or push on to make the most of our time in the region. We reached the compromise of just driving back up to Khertvisi Fortress and having a look from the outside. A look from the outside led to a short walk up a steep hill, which led to going into the fortress. Luckily it’s small and free and is indeed worth the small outlay on your calf muscles on the way up.

Khertvisi is one of Georgia’s oldest fortresses, originally dating back to the 2nd century BC. Legend has it that it was destroyed by no less than Alexander the Great (pretty neat). It was rebuilt and laid waste by Mongols and Turks over the years, going into decline before regaining some strategic importance in the 19th century as a base for Russian and Georgian troops. It sits high on a hill in the ancient Meskheti region of Georgia, overlooking the Mtkvari River. (I met someone who said I had very good pronunciation of Georgian place names, but damned if I know how to pronounce that either.)

After the fortress, we crossed over the world’s wobbliest footbridge for a sit down and an ice cream beside the river. 

We were amazed to see someone make the crossing on motorbike (!)


Cold on the piggies!

That night, I was struck down by the dreaded Delhi Tbilisi Belly, from sources unknown. I privately blame the beef dish that appeared on our dinner table for the second night in a row, but I suppose it could be anything. I’m a bit annoyed though. I’ve survived the likes of Albania, Ukraine, Russia, Thailand and Morocco without turning a hair, only to be laid low by Georgia! I was pretty sick for the next three days, but we bravely soldiered on, not least because we had another hotel to get to in a city 4 hours away. 

Jules still persuaded me to visit Rabati Fortress on the way, but I’ll put the fact that I look a bit wan and am wearing the same clothes as the day before down to feeling a bit under the weather. Anyway, fortress #2 was originally built in the 9th century and called Lomisa Castle. However, after surviving attack by Tamerlane in the late 14th century, it was given over to the Ottoman Empire after the Treaty of Constantinople in 1590 and completely rebuilt. Today, its style offers a delightful little slice of the Ottoman Empire in Georgia, including a central mosque. 

The fortress was extensively renovated/reconstructed early this decade. This usually bothers me quite a bit, but in this case it seems to have been sensitively done and the site is so pretty that if you take it on its own terms as a reconstruction, it’s still well worth a visit, even if not quite authentic. You can see pictures of the works in progress  here (Fun fact for Francophiles and maybe people of a certain age - the reconstruction was inaugurated with a Charles Aznavour concert, as his father was born in the town!)