Saturday, October 21, 2006

TGIF

The museum at night

Down by the banks of the Vltava at night



As seen in TGI Fridays, Andel






Yes, even unemployed bums like Fridays...

Yesterday, after checking my emails (Moscow: you will receive your letter of invitation in 12 business days. I'm meant to start work in 13 business days. Hello?) I went to complete my circuit of the Jewish Museum synagogues + the Old New Synagogue, which is administered separately. You actually have to buy a ticket to go to all 6 Jewish Museum sites (4 synagogues, town hall + graveyard), you can't pay separately for them, so a smart bunny goes to them all in one day, but a stupid bunny goes too late in the day and only makes it to half of them and winds up paying twice. Ah well...

Anyway, first up was the Old New (it was the New Synagogue, then a newer one was built, so it became the Old New). As I was leaving, a shrill American woman (sorry, Yanks, but some of your number float about reinforcing the stereotype) opined loudly "You just walk in there and, boom, two minutes later you're done". It's definitely tacky to hold forth on the subject within earshot of the place, but the woman has a point... The Old New is very old (13th century) and atmospheric, but in contrast to the excellent Jewish Museum sites, there's not a lot going on in there. And the ticket's reasonably pricey. However, I did note that my ticket said the proceeds went towards social events for Holocaust survivors, which is something I can get behind.

Next I went to the Spanish Synagogue, so called because it's built in the Moorish style. And it's fricking gorgeous - nice on the outside, but amazing on the inside. Imagine a mosque, but with a repeated Star of David motif, with every bit of the walls and ceilings decorated, but in such a tasteful and beautiful way - definitely a must see if anyone's ever in Prague. The exhibits in the Spanish and the Maisel Synagogue (the next one I went to) cover the history of the Jews in Bohemia and Moravia (actually I went to them in reverse order, but oh well), which is really interesting, although there's a lot of information, so possibly doing all the synagogues in one hit could induce museum fatigue. There's also an exhibit of synagogue silverware upstairs in the Spanish Synagogue. See www.jewishmuseum.cz & click on 'Exhibitions' for a few photos and a bit about each site - sadly photography isn't allowed in any of the synagogues, but there's a couple to give you an idea what it looks like.

In the evening, Scotty, Laurie, Carolyn and I went out to eat at TGI Friday's (how appropriate). Don't blame me, I was held hostage by the North Americans... Actually the food was really good, in your standard chain restauranty way (overpriced though) and every night they have a different cocktail on special, which is always good news. After that we went to Lucerna, the 80s disco, which was so much fun! I haven't been to a club for aaages, but it was good time had by all. You know how whenever you're in a club and a cheesy 80s number comes on, everyone gets all excited? Basically it was that all night. Plus they had the videos up on a huge screen. Me and Scotty got our groove on, Laurie and Carolyn not so much (or at least not while I was watching). Finally left about 3 am - I didn't want to go home!

Thursday, October 19, 2006

It's official!

I faxed my contract off to Moscow yesterday - haven't heard back, so I'm hoping it got to them okay, but they take FOREVER to make a move on anything, so odds are okay. They better have got it, considering it cost a monumental 150 crowns to fax three pages. That, to put it in context, is an average-to-pricey main meal at the sort of neighbourhood restaurants. A night in the dorms at our hostel costs 220 crowns.

On the other hand, I went to another art gallery yesterday, at the Sternberg Palace - old masters, basically. Before I went in, I asked the price of the audioguide. "In Czech?" the woman asked - woohoo! My sentence of Czech passed the test. But I had to fess up, "In English". "Pet set koruny". I put the money on the counter. "Ne, ne padesat koruny, pet set." Not 50 crowns, but 500 crowns!!! (I'm quite good at numbers, provided things don't go above 100...) Now, 500 crowns can get me two nights at the hostel, a gyros (kebab) for lunch at Pizza Roma (mmm, gyros) and a bottle of water. Not bad for NZ $35... So if you're not splurging on crazy things like faxes and audioguides, you can live quite comfortably here in Prague, which is why I'm not flat broke yet.

Anyway, it was a nice little gallery - I reacquainted myself with Durer's The Feast of the Rose Garlands, back in its rightful home, plus there were some Brueghels (one I even identified as such before looking at the card - go the art historian!), an El Greco, a Goya, some Holbeins, a nice Lucas Cranach pere, a Rembrandt... etc. Some others that were cool without being 'names' as well - unfortunately I often really like some of those ones, but they're never considered worthy of inclusion in the booklet or to be printed on postcards etc., but oh well.

After that, I went to the wine bar where Jess & I met this Czech girl who had travelled quite a bit in NZ. She'd given me her number, but I'd always been too busy during the course to catch up, and since then we'd both had various commitments coming up all the time so we couldn't get together. So that was nice, and if the weather's good early next week we're going to take a trip to Cesky Krumlov together, which is a cool medieval town, which is supposed to be like a mini-Prague.

Wednesday, October 18, 2006

More 'facts' you couldn't give a toss about

  • I've said it before, but my recent foray into Vienna has reinforced how abnormally cautious I've become crossing the road, due to my time in Prague. I swear, if any good Czech thought he could get away with it, nothing would please him more than running down a pedestrian who's legitimately crossing at the lights. I do a complete, full-circle sweep of the road (yeah, still haven't quite got the knack of the drive-on-the-right deal) before gingerly inching out one step at a time. Ironically enough, by the hostel I've been inhabiting for the last 10 years there's an intersection without zebra crossings - what do those manic Czech drivers do? Nine times out of ten they stop and wave me across. But at the lights? It's their civic duty to try and kill me, or at the least to get a good laugh watching me scurry.
  • The Czech government is in a state of sad disrepair. I don't really understand it thoroughly, but from what I can gather, they have an MMP-style system and their last election in July resulted in a stalemate, so there's been a caretaker government since then, which recently lost a vote of no confidence, so I don't really know what's next. There are some sort of elections (for the Senate?) going on at the moment - you see posters, mini-rallies, people handing out flyers etc. And now here's (perhaps) the reason why the Czech political system is screwed. One such flyer-hander-outer accosted me the other day and started politicizing at me. I did my best 'neste Cheshka' (not how you spell it, but it's full of tricky Czech letters - and it means, for those not fluent in Czech [pause to laugh hollowly] 'I'm not Czech'). He said something else to me in Czech that I didn't understand. Then he repeated in English, "If you're from the EU, you can vote." Excuse me? What kind of crazy country allows someone who's been there for (for all they know) five minutes, clearly can't understand a simple sentence in Czech, and knows basically nothing about the country's politics, to vote in their elections? Is that the case Europe-wide, or is this the true secret of the nation's political woes?
  • I've pretty much never seen a metro station where all the escalators are working. Either the Czechs are fiends for escalator maintenance, or they have the world's crappiest escalators.
  • I can get a paperback here (or, as it happens, in Vienna) for pretty much the same price as I can in NZ. That kills me - I would expect to be paying a premium here for English-language reading material, so what's New Zealand's excuse? Those of us who actually read have to support the rest of you morons? Even at reasonable prices, my book 'habit' is liable to send me broke. Ah, how I miss the days of the library...
  • The number one is fiendishly difficult in Czech. Although I lack enough grammatical knowledge to use it correctly, I infer from my study of Russian that there are three gendered forms - jedno, jedna, and jeden, plus it inflects according to case. So I pretty much try to avoid using it at all. But every single freaking time you ask for something in a shop "I'll have a sandwich, please" - they ask you, "one sandwich?" grrrrr! I think it's because the Czech language has no articles (no 'a' or 'the') so you're literally saying "I'll have sandwich, please". But still - I'm pretty damn sure that if I wanted two sandwiches or fifty sandwiches I'd specify. So quit it!
  • Who's obsessed with blogging? Not I!

Tuesday, October 17, 2006

In front of the scenes at the museum

Today I thought I'd do my civic duty and get a little culture at the museum. Big mistake. The National Museum in Prague is one giant yawn-fest, let me warn you! It's pretty much an unreformed old-school museum, full of acres of glass cabinets containing different rocks or bugs, stuffed animals and bones. Plus it's mostly all in Czech - sure, I can figure out what a purple rock called 'ametyst' might possibly be, but, for example, Czech 'granat' is not granite, but (as a myriad of souvenir shops has taught me) garnet - so who knows what some of the other rocks translated as?
They made slightly more effort to tart up the prehistoric section - bilingual labels! (luckily, since a stone axe looks pretty much like any other lump of rock to me) and a weird bit where you went into a 'cave' and were confronted with a mirror covered in 'blood', in which you could see a cardboard caveman poised to throw a rock at you - is this the end of young Gwan? I briefly pondered, before the general crappiness of the effect dawned on me.
The palentology section didn't appear to have any dinosaur bones in it, although I could be wrong as I breezed through very quickly, since by that stage, I was, as my 'little buddy' Laurie would say, beginning to hate my life. At least in the stuffed bird collection, New Zealand got a chance to shine. There were (sadly enough) three stuffed kiwis and a giant moa took pride of place in the middle - although it was unfortunately not locked in a grudge match with a giant eagle...
The saddest part was the exhibit of a pretty battered-looking Greek vase, which was deemed important enough to have a long sign in English next to it, explaining that its purchase and restoration - along with the fact that this vase was the most significant addition to the archaeological collection since 1950. Having just come from the Kunsthistorischesmuseum in Vienna, where there are literally dozens of Greek vases, most in much better nick, I found this quite a poignant statement about the museum's collections. Perhaps I should just be pleased that I went and contributed my 60 crowns to the upkeep of the place, rather than wishing I could be bludgeoned over the head with a blunt object as a cure for massive boredom.

Monday, October 16, 2006

At Vysehrad

Last week we went up to Vysehrad with a couple of the students - home of some lovely views of the city, some ruins, and an old and notable graveyard - it seems a Czech national sport to outdo each other with the fancyness of their graves.
It's supposed to be (I think) the oldest part of Prague, where the first castle was before Prague Castle was built. I'd been up before with Jess, but it was cool to go back with a couple of locals.

God (?) emerging from a sea of ivy

The 'weeping widow' grave

Scary woman looming out of a grave


Freaky grave at Vysehrad

The gang up at Vysehrad: (Elishka's friend), Laurie, Jo, Me, Anna (student), Greg, Ivana (student). 2nd row: Dan, Elishka, Sonja, Eva (student), Scotty

View of the Vltava, with some of the ruins at Vysehrad

Yet more photos

Nick and Greg the uber-talented music man

The morning after - camping out on Carolyn's floor

Filth - our flat on the day we moved out. To be fair, people came to ours to drink and then left the after-effects for us girls to live with...

Foozball at the rock club

Foreground - the ostensible subject of the photo, one of my students. Background - the actual subject of the photo, scary Rasputin man who just sat in the corner of the club all night

Greg launches his plan to stamp out smoking by making it as camp as possible... strange boy

Me and the Gregster - I swear ALL the guys have those caps

Greg taking his absinthe like a man

Laurie playing with the green fairy

Grace, Zoe and Laurie

Hmmm... which of the CELTA-ites have taught in Asia?

More happy snaps

Last days of CELTA

My TP Group - Carolyn, Lauren, me, Mark, Scotty (plus Nick who's gone missing) - we taught together and observed each other's lessons

Me, pretending to be a teacher (so, pretty much like the rest of the month) - I'm teaching 'supercallifragilisticexpialidocious'. Note the insane hair.

Carolyn, Alasdair, Sonja and Grace - on the last day we had to stick things on our backs and then write nice things on everyone else's

Scotty assumes the position

Alasdair and Grace playing the back game

Dan, Scott, Mark and Rosie - probably pretending to pay attention



Sonja, Laurie and Jo


Nick and Rosie

Carolyn and Lauren at CELTA HQ

Nick and Zoe in our lovely flat

At the (evil, but with amusing menus) Red Onion